I get this question all the time, "What does Gold-Filled actually mean?"
You've probably seen the term Gold-Filled floating around, or maybe you saw the shorthand for it "14/20 GF" and wondered what it stands for. So let's break it down!
What is Gold-Filled?
- Definition: A thick layer of real gold (usually 14K) mechanically bonded to a base metal like brass.
- In the US, legally it must contain at least 5% gold by weight (that's 100x more gold than gold-plated).
- Won't flake or rub off easily - behaves much like solid gold in terms of appearance and wearability.
- Great for those who want heirloom-level shine without the heirloom-level price tag.
How does it Compare - Gold Plated, Vermeil, Gold-Filled, and Solid Gold
Gold Plated:
- A whisper-thin layer of gold electroplated over a base metal like brass or copper.
- Most affordable option, but wears of quickly with regular wear (especially rings and earring posts).
- Good for statement pieces worn occasionally, but not ideal for daily wear.
- Base metal could be anything, and once the gold begins to wear off, could irritate your skin if you have sensitivities.
Gold Vermeil:
- A slightly thicker (usually 2.5 microns) of gold over a Sterling Silver base.
- Higher quality than gold plated, and hypoallergenic.
- Great for a mid-rage price point and gentler use.
Gold-Filled:
- Thick bonded layer of gold over brass.
- Durable enough for daily wear, and safe for sensitive skin.
- Looks and feels like solid gold, at a more approachable price.
Solid Gold:
- Pure gold or mixed with different alloys for durability and color options.
- Comes in different karats (K):
- 24K = pure, but very soft
- 18K = 75% gold, rich color, softer than 14K but more durable than 24K
- 14K = 58.5% gold, very durable and commonly used
- 10K = 41.7% gold, more affordable, harder but less vibrant in color
- Best for heirloom and investment pieces, but pricier.
Common Misconceptions (and What to Watch Out For)
- "Gold-filled means it's filled with gold."
Not quite - the term is misleading! The gold is actually the outer layer. Who came up with this term anyways?
- "Gold-plated and Gold-filled are pretty much the same."
Ummm...no! Like I said, gold-filled standards in the US require it to be 5% gold, much thicker than any plating.
- They told me this was "18K Gold-Filled."
While 18K Gold-filled is possible, it's not very common. That usually means the seller is misleading you... or at least confused about the difference between Gold-Filled and Gold Plated. This is why it's important to understand the terms used, and shop from reputable sellers. International manufacturers don't always adhere to the same quality regulations that we do in the US (I'm looking at you Temu!). I've seen sellers claiming 14K Gold-Filled over a 10K gold core....I don't think so, these are more likely plated and I would be very skeptical of what they are.
- "Why aren't there more jewelry options available in Gold-Filled?"
Due to the way Gold-filled is manufactured, there are some serious limitations on what can be made. Gold-filled can really only be manufactured in sheets, tubes, and wires. So if it's not cut out of flat sheets or made from wires, it's probably not Gold-filled. Most 3 dimensional shapes in jewelry are Cast (in which the metal is melted and poured into a mold), and you cannot cast layered metal. So if it's a very 3-dimensional shape (like a miniature carving) that is labeled Gold-Filled, be skeptical. Look for rings that were formed out of wire, simple bangle bracelets, flat shaped charms, and chains- these are the kinds of items that could be gold-filled.
- "These gold colors are different. Does that mean one is fake?"
Actually, no. When it comes to 14K gold, there are a lot of color options! Manufactures can blend the alloys together to get different looks (just look at Rose Gold or Green Gold!). So different manufacturers might use slightly different blends of alloy to make their 14K gold, which would result in different colors for gold, and gold-filled as well.
- Other things to look out for?
If jewelry is just described as "gold" with no mention of what Karat, or other specifics, that is misleading and you should ask/look for more information. Also, as I am writing this the "Spot Price" of gold is over $3,000 per ounce, which means that anything made with real gold is going to be $$$. If you are purchasing something with a price that seems to be too good to be true, it probably is. Gold-filled costs more than silver to manufacture, and even that 5% gold content means that it has good value.
What does "14/20 GF" mean?
Most gold-filled material on the market is made using 14K gold on the outside, and is required to be 5% gold, or 1/20 by weight. So the 14/20 is shorthand for 1/20th 14K gold-filled. You might see this written as 14/20 GF, 14/20 Gold-filled, or 14K Gold-filled.
Overall, Gold-filled is a great option for long lasting, affordable jewelry. Rest assured, that Alexis Ann sources our materials from reputable US based companies dedicated to the highest levels of quality and sustainability. If you ever have any questions about metals, or our jewelry, please reach out to us!